As I walked into Sole Play's latest event

--greeted by a generous women's wall of sneakers and racks of accompanying apparel-- I joined a group of men and women there to celebrate not just sneakers, but breast cancer survival and solidarity. While looking around at everyone in their flyest pink sneakers, laughing and fellowshipping over drinks and the new Air Jordan Five 'Soft Pink' release, I found myself thinking of how far women within sneaker culture have come. Gone are the days when we played the background, dressing in the latest streetwear and flyest sneakers in the shadows, while our male counterparts took center stage. This article is the story of how those girls created a subculture of their own that has grown into a cultural force, spanning music, sports business, and pop culture. From everyday people to entrepreneurs, to creators and celebrity influencers, there is a whole community of women with a story to tell about their love for sneakers and learning how to take up space within the culture.

1970s: The Birth of a Movement

The intersection of sports, fashion, and music in the late 1970s created a perfect storm. Basketball had flash, hip-hop had flavor, and both had attitude. The NBA’s stars were its style ambassadors: Walt “Clyde” Frazier in his Puma Suedes (1973), Julius “Dr. J” Erving soaring in Converse Pro Leathers (1976), and George “Iceman” Gervin gliding up and down the. court in Nike Blazers (1977). Kids plastered their walls with posters of these players—and then put the same shoes on their own feet. Sneakers became a badge of identity in places such as intercity New York, whether you were a baller, a B-boy, or a block-party DJ. And while women were often pushed to the margins of that story, they were there—styling, dancing, and creating alongside the men who got the headlines.

After the summer blackout of 1977, however, the Bronx would never look the same and not just because of the burning buildings and piles of rubble caused by rampant insurance fraud. That blackout infamously allowed hundreds of New York City wannabe DJs to acquire turntables and records in questionable fashion, leading to an explosion of a new form of music, Hip-Hop.

"There was a large amount of DJs after that because equipment became more accessible," he says. "That's not to say that they went on to become superstars or anything like that. A lot of that equipment got sold or stolen. But it did increase the number of people who had access to DJ equipment." - Grandmaster Caz (amny.com/)

With a new form of music comes a new form of expression. This new style and sound merged perfectly with the emerging Hollywood-like star power and pop culture relevance of the NBA, creating an entirely new culture. A culture that many thought would not last has already surpassed 50 years. Moreover, in those 50+ years, we have had b-boys, beatboxers, graffiti artists, DJs, rappers, and more. However, there was another story hidden underneath. The story of the girls who ran with the boys to prove they could do anything the guys could. Those girls were just as into the music, the style, and the sport.

1980s

Run-DMC’s “My Adidas” and the Birth of the Brand Era

In the 1980s, hip-hop experienced rapid growth, which was mirrored by an increase in the number of sneakers sold and advertised. Run-DMC brought the regional look of Hollis, Queens, to the world, complete with gold rope chain, Kangol hats, and laceless adidas Superstars (a twenty year old, almost forgotten model outside of Hollis, Queens, also known as the Shell Toe) — with no laces. Run-DMC, simply by expressing themselves and what they like, fell into a never-before-seen partnership with adidas after releasing their hit, "My Adidas," in 1986.

Adidas Podcast Audio

Darryl McDaniels aka DMC explained to Will Smith on his Class of '88 podcast that the song, an idea of their manager Russell Simmons, didn't take shape until McDaniels felt it was essential to defend their choice of expression from a local doctor with influence who deemed all kids in sneakers as "thugs." Adidas, once clued in to the reason for their recent sales increase, wisely reached out to the group for a never-before-seen sneaker endorsement deal for entertainers — complete with their own shoe, the adidas El Dorado.

This partnership created the blueprint for future acts and generations, showing the business world the marketing possibilities of hip-hop. A surprising turn of events for even McDaniels, who does "even play basketball!"

The Ladies of the ’80s: From Jane Fonda to “5411s”

In 1982, Reebok found itself in the aerobic business, hiring movie star Jane Fonda to promote the Reebok Freestyle Hi as a workout option for working-class white women. The Freestyle Hi, however, found its way to the streets as girls and women of the hip-hop generation took to the sleek style and high-top look that went well with scrunchy socks and had great color options.

This shoe is not only one of the first times the women of the culture felt that they had a shoe that was their own, but it is also one of our first cases of regional sneaker slang. The Reebok Freestyle Hi in New York City is known as the "5411", named for their price after tax during the time of release.

With hip-hop being as male dominated as sneaker culture, the 5411s started to represent a particular type of girl without much pushback. The 5411s became a symbol of the "Around the Way Girl" with mentions within songs. Eventually, Reebok became the go-to mention within hip-hop to describe women opposite of class or money.

5411 History Audio

As other brands took hold and more options became available, women became less linked to the Reebok Freestyle, though there was an attempt to resurrect the model in the 2010s through singer-songwriter Alicia Keys.

The Beginning of Jordan's 90s Reign

While playing at the University of North Carolina, it was clear to some that Michael Jordan was a superstar in the making. The film Air, starring Ben Affleck, Viola Davis, and Matt Damon, details Sonny Vaccaro's—a college basketball handler turned sneaker consultant—vision and insistence in making Jordan "The Guy" at Nike, while simultaneously trying to convince Jordan that Nike was a better fit for him than Converse or adidas.

When Nike released the Air Jordan 1 in 1984, the NBA nor Jordan was very fond of the shoe. The NBA's issue? The color blocking of the shoe went against the league’s uniform policy of the time, which stated that the predominant color of a player's shoe must be white. Jordan, used to the NBA’s standard practice, famously called the model a “clown shoe.”

Air Jordan Podcast Audio

The NBA banning the model for breaking uniform rules—wasn’t just a basketball story; it was a cultural earthquake. Nike paid every fine issued by the NBA on behalf of Jordan and leaned into the controversy with the iconic “Banned” commercial: “The NBA threw them out of the game… Fortunately, they can’t stop you from wearing them.” Little did anyone know that this was the beginning of a phenomenon and a market share giant.

From the Bronx to Decatur to Fort Lauderdale, Jordan fever swept through schools and became a must-have for basketball fans and those in the know. Janice Faison was definitely in the know and remembers that first pair vividly during her childhood days in the Bronx, New York, stating, "When Air Jordans came out, the very first ones, that was my era. I loved those shoes." From the birthplace of hip-hop, it's fitting that Faison was a part of the group of ladies pushing past the boundaries of the Nike Air Force One—they're coming, I promise—and Reebok Freestyle and into sneakers' most significant era: '90's basketball shoes.

“When Air Jordans came out, the very first ones, that was my era. I loved those shoes.” - Faison

By the time we enter the '90s, the Air Jordan line is well established with over five models, Jordan and the Chicago Bulls are winning championships, and as a consequence, the Air Jordan becomes the sneaker of the decade. In Decatur, Georgia, Erika Dailey relives the buzz, stating, "Back in the '90s, Jordans were it. Everybody had to have a pair."

And things were no different in Fort. Lauderdale, Florida, where Love Facyson used to skip school with her fellow group of sneakerheads. Filling the mall parking lot in the early morning and showing up to school by lunch—just in time to show off the latest pick-up. Facyson recalls it fondly, stating, "I think everybody in our [school] district was lined up at the Footlocker… We skipped school to make sure we had those shoes." So many students skipped school to buy them that Nike moved its releases to Saturdays to avoid the public relations issue—a policy that lasted decades.

Kasia Brozeski and Facyson's sneaker stories have something in common: their love of sneakers starts with their love for their siblings. Facyson watched her older sister run up and down the court in her Jordans and Brozeski from Pittsburgh, had two older brothers playing sports in sneakers that would become a lifelong passion for her. Once becoming settled in life with a husband, kids, and a career, Brozeski shares her love of sneakers with her family, her social media followers, and the local youth sports scene, stating, "My husband's a huge sneakerhead. We've got every silhouette from one on up—a Jordan shrine in the basement," she said. "Now my kids call me the mom with the cool sneakers."

“I think everybody in our [school] district was lined up at the Footlocker… We skipped school just to make sure we had them shoes.” -Facyson

2000s

Missy Brings The Ladies To The Front

In 2005, super-producer and chart topper Missy Elliott became the first woman with a signature sneaker line, Respect M.E. with adidas. This line that mixed Y2K and old school streetwear saw Elliott pick up Run-DMC’s mantel in an era where she was sonically returning to the sounds of the 80s.

Elliot remembers her childhood moments in an adidas ad stating, “My earliest memory of the Superstar was probably when I was in junior high school, my eighth grade year, and I won that talent show, actually, my first talent show that I ever had, and I performed over a Run-DMC record.” It’s clear how much adidas means to Elliott, but what about her impact on the sneaker world?

Respect M.E. might've been short-lived, but its impact was seismic; her collection kicked open the door for Alicia Keys' partnership with Reebok (2012), Rihanna's Fenty x Puma collection (2014) and Beyoncé's Ivy Park collection with adidas (2020). Decades later, Missy’s influence echoed when adidas ran a new Superstar campaign featuring, among many, her alongside GloRilla, the Memphis rapper who shouted out the Shell Toe in her hit single “Yeah Glo!” brings the Superstar to a new generation.

Air Force One: Resurgence of the Classic

Back in a world when things like fashion and slang were regional, New York, St.Louis, and the Southeast were known for rocking Air Force Ones—especially the low cut, all white version. St.Louis native Nelly decided to write an anthem for his love of the regional classic, and 2002's "Air Force Ones" became an instant hit, reaching number three on the Billboard Top 100 and reigniting love for the Nike classic outside of its usual markets, cementing its spot as a cross-regional icon.

Taylor Bailey from Chicago, of course, has an appreciation for Jordans through her late father, her favorite being the Air Jordan True Blue Threes, but she is also a part of the 2000s Air Force One resurgence. So much so, Bailey says she's known for it. "Even now," she says, "they'll say, 'Taylor’s got the new [Air Jordan] 3s or the Air Force Ones.' I've got every color—whatever dropped, I had to have it. Definitely an Air Force One kid, for sure."

2010s: Changing Perceptions

Today, sneaker culture belongs to everyone—a women are owning it. Gone are the days of traditional, feminine women feeling locked out of sneaker culture due to propriety. Women are combining their fashion sensibilities with comfort and functionality, creating fun, flirty, and unique looks that were previously unimaginable.

Faison, who's been into kicks since the 80s, has seen her friends change their perception of sneakers, who can wear them, and where they're acceptable. "I'm not a heels person, but I do have friends who wear a lot of heels, and lately they've been kicking those heels to the curb and rocking sneakers to work, and I love to see it. I think in this day and age, it's more acceptable for a woman to get away with rocking sneakers with a business suit or a dress," states Faison with confidence.

Atlanta-area educator Sierra Adams, with a small but growing collection, admits she was one of those girls who thought sneakers weren't girly enough, stating, "At the time growing up, I felt like [Jordans] were a boy's shoe or for girls who played sports. And I was neither… I was in [marching] band." Now, she's a tech-savvy gamer with her eyes on the upcoming PlayStation x Reebok collab. "I love what they're doing—anime, gaming, fashion—it's all blending," she said. "There's so much you can do with sneakers now."

2020s: The WNBA Are Having a Sneaker Moment

The 2020s ushered in a new golden age for women's sneakers. Players like Sabrina Ionescu, Breanna Stewart, Angel Reese, and A'ja Wilson now headline their own signature lines. Wilson's Nike A'One, released during her MVP-and-championship season, brought things full circle from Sheryl Swoopes' Air Swoopes in 1996—the first women's basketball signature shoe. "I never got to see women play on TV," Swoopes once said. "So I watched Michael Jordan." Her visibility—and that of Lisa Leslie and Dawn Staley and others—made it possible for stars such as Wilson to use their star power to move the signature sneaker needle forward for women, while Angel Reese restores Reebok's former glory. As Taylor Bailey notes, “Angel Reese’s shoe was always gonna sell out. People stand by her.”

From Vashtie Kola becoming the first woman with a Jordan sneaker collaboration with her Air Jordan 2 Retro Gs 'Violette in 2011 to Teyana Taylor's "A Rose From Harlem" Air Jordan 1 Zoom CMFT 2 and varsity jacket in 2023 to Nina Chanel's sneaker of the year nominated Air Jordan 3s from 2024, the women are gaining more and more opportunities to combine their love of sneakers and their creative talents to bring us unique perspectives on the classics we grew up with.

From Reebok's Freestyles to Nike's A'Ones, women have taken sneaker culture from the sidelines to center stage. What began in the Bronx has grown into a global language—spoken through colorways, collabs, and confidence.